Microneedling: Expert Guidance for Flawless Results
Microneedling has emerged as one of the most sought-after cosmetic treatments for improving skin texture, evening skin tone, reducing fine lines, and fading acne scars. In addition, Microneedling can also used on other parts of the body: improve hair density (scalp, beard and eyebrows), reduce body scars, improve the look and texture of sun damaged hands.
Dependent on our body’s natural healing mechanisms, microneedling isn’t a quick fix—it’s a steady process. Performed by acupuncturists, trained dermatologists or licensed medical estheticians, the procedure involves creating micro-channels in the skin to stimulate collagen production and a cascade of benefits that continue to unfold for up to a year after. While minimally invasive and quick, the secret to achieving glowing, long-lasting results lies in aftercare and a treatment plan suitable for you.
To help you navigate post-microneedling care, here’s a 2-part detailed day-by-day guide with realistic expectations from me, a licensed acupuncturist specializing in facial rejuvenation techniques. You'll learn what to do, what to avoid, and how to ensure optimal healing and results:
• Part 1 discusses aftercare days following treatment
• Part 2 discusses the science behind microneedling with a summary of realistic expectations for conditions.
Part 1: Understanding Microneedling and Aftercare
Microneedling, aka Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT)," uses ultra-fine needles to create precise micro-injuries in the skin. These controlled punctures kickstart your body’s natural wound-healing response, which, in turn, stimulates fibroblasts to ramp up collagen and elastin production. Why is this a big deal? Collagen and elastin are the scaffolding of youthful, resilient skin, and boosting their levels can improve firmness, refine texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, acne scars, sagging, and even pore size. Think of it as a workout for your skin—minus the sweat.
Microneedling isn’t just for skin—it’s a game-changer for boosting hair density too. By creating controlled micro-injuries on the scalp, microneedling stimulates dormant hair follicles, enhances nutrient absorption, and triggers growth factors that support thicker, healthier hair.
But here’s the catch: while microneedling sets the stage for glowing results, the real magic happens during the healing phase with results starting at 1-month building to a year after treatment. Wherein the days following your treatment are critical; your skin barrier is temporarily compromised, leaving it vulnerable to irritation and infection. Thoughtful aftercare not only ensures your skin heals seamlessly but also amplifies the treatment’s results.
During Treatment
Before your microneedling appointment, your practitioner will begin with a consultation to assess your skin concerns and, if chosen, discuss the benefits of adding acupuncture. The treatment starts with cleansing and applying a numbing cream for comfort. Microneedling involves gliding a device with ultra-fine needles over the skin to stimulate collagen production, improve texture, and enhance absorption of serums.
If acupuncture is included, fine needles are placed on key points to promote relaxation, reduce inflammation, and support circulation, complementing the skin’s healing process. Post-treatment, your skin may feel warm and slightly red, and soothing serums or hydrating masks will be applied, along with detailed aftercare instructions. This holistic approach blends advanced skincare with traditional techniques for optimal rejuvenation.
Day 0: Immediately After Treatment
Your skin will likely feel warm, tight, and may appear red, resembling a sunburn. You might also notice minor swelling. Take the day off from your typical skincare routine allowing the serums absorb into the skin.
What to Do:
Minimal Contact: Avoid touching your face and wearing makeup to prevent introducing bacteria into the micro-channels.
Gentle Cleansing: Use a fragrance-free, non-foaming cleanser only if necessary. If serums or PRP were applied during your session, consider skipping cleansing altogether to allow full absorption.
Hydration and Healing: Apply a gentle, post-procedure hyaluronic serum or semi-occlusive barrier cream (Aquaphor) recommended by your practitioner to lock in moisture and aid repair.
What to Avoid:
Skincare Products with Actives: No retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, or vitamin C. No scented products. Also no exfoliations, scrubbing, rubbing, or facial treatments such as peels, waxing, or lasers.
Exercise or Heat Exposure: Skip workouts, saunas, and hot showers to avoid excessive sweating, which can irritate the skin.
Sun Exposure: Stay indoors or wear a wide-brimmed hat if you must go outside.
Makeup: Avoid wearing makeup for the first couple of days as it can introduce dirt and bacteria into the micro-wounds of the skin.
Skincare Devices: No need for gua sha or rollers. Rest and recover is key.
Ibuprofen: Since the inflammatory process is imperative to results, avoid taking NSAIDS or Ibuprofen for the first day to allow the natural healing mechanisms to occur.
Day 1: Healing Begins
Redness may persist like a sunburn, and your skin could feel dry or tight as it is in the active healing phase. Slight peeling or sensitivity may develop.
What to Do:
Hydrate Inside and Out: Drink plenty of water to support skin regeneration. Use a hyaluronic acid serum to maintain hydration (as long as it’s free of irritating ingredients listed above).
Apply Sunscreen: Use a physical sunscreen (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) with SPF 30 or higher to protect your healing skin.
What to Avoid:
Same as Day 0: No exfoliating products, workouts, sweating, makeup, ibuprofen, skincare devices, or excessive sun exposure.
Day 3: The Transition Phase
By now, redness and swelling should have decreased significantly. Some peeling or a “rough sand paper” skin texture is normal as the skin renews itself. It’s very common to have the formation of milia (seed like cysts) or a mild breakout.
What to Do:
Gradually Reintroduce Products: Start incorporating normal moisturizers or serums routines along with with soothing, hydrating ingredients. Continue with sunscreen daily.
Light Makeup: If needed, light, breathable makeup can be applied. Ensure all tools are sanitized.
What to Avoid:
Strong Skincare Actives: Continue avoiding retinoids, acids, and other harsh exfoliating ingredients.
Excessive Sun or Heat Exposure: Protect your skin with physical barriers and sunscreen. Exercise exercise with caution… some people are still sensitive to excess sweating. Play it slow.
Don’t Pick: Although tempting, picking at peeling skin can complicate things down the line.
Day 5: Skin is Strengthening
The micro-channels created during treatment have sealed, and most sensitivity and redness should have subsided.
What to Do:
Reintroduce Actives Slowly: If your skin feels fully healed, gradually incorporate vitamin C or mild retinoids one at a time to assess tolerance.
Increase Hydration: Consider richer moisturizers or masks to restore your skin’s barrier.
What to Avoid:
Overloading Your Routine: Stick with simple, restorative skincare to avoid overwhelming your healing skin.
Day 7: Full Recovery
By the one-week mark, your skin should look and feel much better. Collagen production is in full swing, and you may begin noticing subtle improvements in texture and tone.
What to Do:
Return to Your Normal Routine: You can fully resume your regular skincare regimen, including active ingredients and devices, provided your skin feels ready.
Keep Using Sunscreen: Daily SPF is essential to protect your results.
What to Avoid:
Aggressive Treatments: Avoid peels, lasers, or additional microneedling sessions for several weeks to allow full recovery.
Final Thoughts
Microneedling delivers impressive results when paired with diligent aftercare. By following a structured skincare plan and avoiding irritants, you’re giving your skin the tools it needs to heal and regenerate effectively.
Remember, consistency and patience are key—collagen remodeling continues for weeks after treatment, so your results will only improve over time. For any concerns or questions, always consult your practitioner to ensure your aftercare routine is tailored to your skin’s specific needs.
Part 2: The Science and Strategy Behind Monthly Microneedling for Best Results
Microneedling is not a one-and-done treatment; its power lies in a consistent, progressive approach. I like to say it’s a “long con” wherein a single session will deliver visible improvements in skin texture and tone, but for truly transformative results, multiple treatments spaced one month apart are key. With your body producing results up to a year after treatment. Here’s what to expect based on your skin goals, and the science behind why this schedule works so well.
How Many Treatments Do You Need?
The number of microneedling sessions required depends on your skin concerns:
Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Typically, 4–6 treatments spaced one month apart are needed to stimulate enough collagen and elastin for visible plumping and smoothing of lines.
Acne Scarring: Deeper scars often require 6–8 sessions to break down scar tissue and trigger regeneration.
Hyperpigmentation and Uneven Tone: 3–4 sessions can help even skin tone by increasing cell turnover and targeting areas of discoloration.
Overall Skin Rejuvenation: For preventative care or minor texture concerns, 2–3 treatments may suffice to maintain radiance and elasticity.
Mild Hair Thinning: 3–4 sessions spaced 4 weeks apart can help reactivate dormant follicles and improve hair quality.
Moderate Hair Loss (e.g., Androgenetic Alopecia): 6–8 treatments, once a month, are recommended to see substantial increases in density and regrowth.
Severe Hair Loss: More intensive treatment protocols (8+ sessions) may be needed, with annual maintenance treatments.
What Happens Between Treatments?
Weeks 1–4: The Immediate Healing Phase
After a microneedling session, your body initiates a cascade of biological processes:
Inflammatory Response: Micro-injuries trigger the release of growth factors, signaling the skin to repair itself. This phase is when redness, swelling, and tightness occur.
Cellular Proliferation: Fibroblasts—the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin—become highly active. By the second week, new capillaries are forming, improving blood flow, while keratinocytes work to rebuild the epidermis.
Collagen Synthesis: Around the third to fourth week, collagen begins to mature and crosslink, strengthening the dermis and improving elasticity.
Months 2–6: Building Momentum
With monthly sessions, each treatment builds on the last, intensifying collagen remodeling. The cumulative effect strengthens the skin’s scaffolding, filling in wrinkles, smoothing scars, and tightening pores. The new collagen is Type III, the kind most abundant in youthful skin, which gradually matures into firmer Type I collagen over several months.
Months 6–12: Long-Term Results
By the one-year mark, your skin will look significantly rejuvenated. Fine lines and wrinkles are reduced, scars appear softer, and your skin texture is noticeably smoother. Collagen levels remain elevated, and with proper maintenance (1–2 treatments per year), you can sustain these effects.
Cosmetic and Biomedical Expectations
Cosmetic Results:
I know we all want results fast. However, it’s important to know that results depend on slow methodical functions of the body. From a patient perspective, visible improvements begin as early as the first month, with a brighter, smoother complexion and more even tone. By month three, wrinkles and scars diminish, and skin feels firmer. A year later, the skin will fully transform with healthier skin, and intensive structural changes supporting improved elasticity and texture.
Biomedical Perspective:
Microneedling works by leveraging the skin’s innate ability to regenerate. The increased fibroblast activity and enhanced extracellular matrix production result in thicker, more resilient skin. Over time, the dermis rebuilds its structural integrity, and even long-standing damage, such as deep scars, can show dramatic improvement. This process takes time and we do not want to rush it.
Consistency is Key
Microneedling’s benefits compound over time, much like a workout routine. Sticking to a monthly schedule for the first 4–6 sessions gives your skin the boost it needs to rebuild from within. With regular treatments, you’re not just addressing visible skin concerns—you’re strengthening the skin’s foundation for long-term health and beauty.